FAQ

(Frequently Asked Questions)

Q: What are the advantages/disadvantages of an aluminum center shaft with a locked in flybar?

A: The flybar will be less likely to be sent flying in a crash, but will also be more prone to bending. It is recommended that a beginner start out with the factory top cap that allows the flybar to come loose on impact and upgrade to the more secure aluminum version after gaining some experience. An alternative to the captured flybar is to use two flybar links on each side. This allows for better control over the flybar and usually prevents it from coming completely loose unless it is a severe impact.

 

Q: How can I get more forward flight action?

A: Changing the servo horn to a longer horn with more throw will cause the swashplate to sway further and allow for increased maneuverability and sensitivity. It is recommended that the beginner start out with the factory settings, then transition to increased fore/aft travel (left servo) and then left/right travel (right servo) when they are more experienced.

Caution: The increased travel on the swashplate can cause it to separate. An aluminum swashplate is usually a good fix.

 

Q: What are some of the optional replacement blades available for the LV4?

A: Esky Factory Blades: These are light, cheap and make the heli stable and easy to fly. Their biggest downside is usually quickly discovered when they crack and shatter on impact. 

Xtreme: These blades are heavier than the factory blades. In addition to increased mass, they are thicker, with an airfoil shape and will increase the load on the motors, while increasing lift and control. Flight times are generally reduced. Motor temperature should be closely monitored to prevent premature failure. Xtreme blades can withstand repeated crashes without breaking.

Harden: Not as heavy as the Xtreme blades, but much more durable than the factory parts. Harden blades improve flight and durability without significantly elevating motor temperatures.

Helimax: The Heli-Max blades for the EZ will fit and are more durable than the factory blades, while performing about the same. They can usually be found fairly cheaply at a local hobby store.

eBay Cheap Blades: There are a lot of eBay vendors selling replacement blades in packs of 12 or more. They have the same geometry as the factory blades, but are injection molded of a different plastic that is not as brittle and less likely to crack or shatter on impact. 

 

Q: How tight should the blade holders be?

A: The blades should be loose enough to fall on their own when held on their sides. If they are tight enough to hold the blade extended when held on its side, the retaining screw should be loosened slightly.

 

Q: I’m having a hard time maintaing constant altitude during a hover. It always seems to climb or drop between two “clicks” on the left stick. Can I do anything to remedy this?

A: A popular solution is to open the transmitter case and slide a piece of small nitro fuel tubing over the ratcheting mechanism on the left stick. This softens the ratchet position and allows a finer degree of control over altitude during hover without causing the stick to become loose and sloppy.

 

Q: My coaxial heli has a problem with spinning around and I can’t seem to get it trimmed.

A: Assuming that the trim beneath the yaw stick (left in US) has already been maxed out in an attempt to counteract this rotation, there are a few other things you can try. 

1) Adjust the proportional control on the gyro. It may be labeled something different, but most gyros have the ability to control the amount of counter-rotating force applied by the opposing rotor in a coaxial configuration. Make a small adjustment, and then turn off the heli (unplug the battery) and then turn it back on to re-initialize the gyro. Ensure the heli is standing still while the gyro is calibrating. If the problem becomes worse, make a small correction in the other direction. 

2) If you cannot get the rudder trimmed out with either the trim on the transmitter or the proportional control on the gyro, then this indicates a bigger problem. Some things to check are:

a) Ensure both top and bottom blades are in good condition. If one is cracked or chipped, it will have different lift than the other blades and can prevent it from being able to counteract the rotational force of the other set of blades.

b) Check the mesh on both motors. There should be a small amount of play in both gear/pinion mesh. If one is tighter than the other, loosen the motor mounting screws (no need to remove them) and adjust the mesh to be a bit more loose. A thin piece of paper can help you determine the proper spacing needed between pinion and spur gear. Both blades should spin by hand with the same force. Any binding in the mesh, or bearings, could cause an imbalance.

c) If all else fails, it is possible one of the motors is failing, and being weaker than the other, is unable to counteract the rotational force. This is especially common if the throttle is not quickly reduced after a crash and the blade is stopped against an object. A faulty gyro would be the last thing to check, as they can be costly to replace.

 

Q: What type of heli do I need if I want forward flight? 

A: A 3 channel helicopter generally has throttle, rudder and fore/aft controls, which allow for forward flight. A 2CH heli can be weighted to provide forward flight but this will cause it to be difficult to hover.

 

Q: What types of controls are available on a 2CH, 3CH, 4CH, 6CH heli?

A: Typically you will find the following:

2CH - Throttle, Rudder

3CH - Throttle, Rudder, Fore/Aft pitch

4CH - Throttle, Rudder, Fore/Aft pitch, L/R Roll

6CH - Throttle, Rudder, Fore/Aft pitch, L/R Roll, Collective Pitch, Gyro Gain

 

Q: What is the difference between Mini and Micro Helis?

A: Micro Helis typically fit in the palm of your hand with a main rotor diameter typically ranging from 5″ to 8″ (120mm - 180mm). Being extremely light, they are less susceptible to parts breakage during a crash. They are inexpensive, and generally only have 2 or 3 channels, at a maximum.

Mini Helis are typically classified as small indoor helis with a main rotor diameter of a foot or more. They are the smallest of the conventional sized helis that are classified by rotor diameter, in mm. 250mm-350mm is a typical range for an indoor, “mini” helicopter.

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